The mountains where you can ski right across Europe’s international borders
By Mary Novakovich, CNN
(CNN) — Skiing without borders — when you have breakfast in one country and easily ski into another for lunch. European ski domains that sprawl across international borders bring a new meaning to the idea of cross-country skiing. It’s hard to suppress a little thrill when you find yourself skiing into new territory, changing languages, cuisines and even, occasionally, currencies along the way.
Thanks to Europe’s Schengen Area, whose 29 countries abolished border controls in 1995, it’s a seamless experience to ski from one country to another.
The Portes du Soleil domain gives you the chance to ski from France into Switzerland from some of its 12 linked resorts.
Neighbors La Rosière in France and La Thuile in Italy comprise Espace San Bernardo, turning two smallish resorts into a much bigger playground.
In France’s Southern Alps, Montgenèvre flies the French flag in the almost entirely Italian Via Lattea, while the Swiss and Italians share the Matterhorn from opposite sides of their borders.
Over in Austria, one of its biggest party resorts, Ischgl, is connected to the more sedate Samnaun in Switzerland.
Just don’t forget to catch the last lift back to your base, or you’ll face an expensive taxi ride or hotel stay. To be on the safe side, bring your passport.
Espace San Bernardo – France and Italy
Family-friendly La Rosière in France’s Savoie region has some of the sunniest slopes in the French Alps, as well as panoramic views over the Isère Valley. While its slopes are more geared towards beginners and intermediates, advanced skiers will want to explore the large freeride area at the top of Mont Valaisan at 2,800 meters.
At the top of Fort de la Redoute at 2,390 meters, there are panoramic views from the glass-floored terrace to take in before tackling the narrow red run over into La Thuile in Italy’s Aosta Valley.
Once you endure two long and rather tedious drag lifts, you can glide through the rest of Espace San Bernardo’s 160 kilometers of varied pistes and mountain restaurants serving generous plates of pasta. Bear in mind that the drag lifts are shut during bad weather, so save your French-Italian excursion for a sunny day.
While you’re in La Thuile, you can take advantage of the chance to go heli-skiing, which is not allowed in France, but it’s legal to be dropped off in Italy and ski over to France.
And whichever resort you ski in, you’ll have wonderful views of Mont Blanc to enjoy.
Ischgl, Austria – Samnaun, Switzerland
It’s no exaggeration to say that high-altitude Ischgl is the liveliest resort in the Alps, with huge, big-name concerts launching and closing the season and a dancing-till-dawn nightlife. It’s also a magnet for snowboarders, and features one of Europe’s best terrain parks.
Contrast this buzzing Tirolean town in southern Austria with its small, serene neighbor across the border in Switzerland, Samnaun, which is also part of the Silvretta Arena ski area covering 239 kilometers (149 miles) of slopes.
Two very different worlds, but both easily accessible thanks to a speedy lift system.
Back in the 19th century, when the only road to Samnaun was through Austria, the Swiss decided to give this tiny village duty-free status — the only one in Switzerland. So when you ski across the border, you can stock up on duty-free goods.
But getting there is the fun part: the old smugglers’ trails have been turned into exhilarating ski circuits.
Download the Samnaun app and choose from gold, silver and bronze, from a four-hour challenging thigh-burner to an easier route of blue runs. There are checkpoints along the way that track your progress, and everyone who completes their routes are entered into a prize draw.
Portes du Soleil – France and Switzerland
Twelve resorts — eight in France and four in Switzerland — comprise one of the world’s biggest ski domains, Portes du Soleil, which marked its 60th anniversary in 2024. Its 650 kilometers (404 miles) of pistes will keep mileage-hungry intermediates happy, as you really get a sense of travelling across large distances.
Start in the pretty traditional French village of Châtel and you’ll be across the Swiss border in Morgins before long. You’ll pass the hamlets of Champoussin and Les Crosets, and you can take a detour into the biggest of the Swiss villages, Champéry.
Expert skiers will want to tackle the infamous Swiss Wall run at the Pas de Chavanette, which has a vertical drop of 331 meters and is covered in moguls. Definitely not a piste to be trifled with, so don’t attempt it if you’re not an advanced skier.
Come back into France via the futuristic 1960s resort of Avoriaz, which is directly linked to two of the Portes du Soleil’s most attractive and traditional villages, Morzine and family-focused Les Gets.
Via Lattea – France and Italy
Out of the eight ski resorts that make up the Via Lattea — Milky Way — only Montgenèvre is over the Italian border in France.
Montgenèvre (which the Italians call Monginevro) also has some of the most varied terrain across the whole domain, including a high-altitude beginners’ area. Its closest neighbor, little Claviere just over the Italian border, is easy to reach on skis, and it’s also a lovely 20-minute walk along snowy cross-country skiing trails.
For a full-day adventure, ski all the way to Sestriere, one of the main resorts of the 2006 Turin Winter Olympics. Partygoers, meanwhile, head to Sauze d’Oulx, where skiers from Turin come out to play. If you want a quieter time in Sauze d’Oulx (which is pronounced “soze dooks,” by the way), come during the week when it’s not as boisterous.
Zermatt, Switzerland – Cervinia, Italy
The Swiss might have the better view of the Matterhorn in Zermatt, but the Italian resort of Cervinia has plenty going for it — long, wide, sunny slopes perfect for cruising, an abundance of snow, and, crucially, lower prices than swish Switzerland.
When the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing opened in 2023, this new cable car joined the two resorts and offered a faster alternative to a series of time-consuming lifts between the two countries.
It became the highest border crossing in the Alps and made it possible for non-skiers to go from one resort to the other. However, the crossing will be closed for maintenance from January 6 to February 14, 2025, so bear that in mind if you’re not a skier and still want to visit Cervinia.
Zermatt is one of the world’s greatest ski resorts, and the beauty of the Matterhorn is really quite breathtaking. On the other side of Monte Cervino (as the Matterhorn is called in Italy), Cervinia counters with a pleasingly Italian atmosphere, snow-sure high-altitude slopes and a long season.
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